Wednesday, May 18, 2005
Saturday, May 21
Arrival, Day 1
I arrived pretty early and was greeted by a sleepy professor and his daughter upon getting to the Woodmere apartments. We had breakfast at the Stanley’s Thorntree restaurant, and then proceeded to a rather unordered grocery shopping trip. Buying bottled water was a priority, as none of us wanted to “retrain” our body’s fauna. The weather was surprisingly pleasant for being only 2 degrees south of the equator, and I coming from the U.P. of Michigan.
Sunday, May 22
Day 2
We all woke up at 4 am local time. We stayed up for a while, drank tea, snacked, chatted and then attempted to sleep again. For breakfast we visited the Java House, and that would become our morning haunt of choice. We then played tourist and took a guided tour of the National Museum, which housed a rather impressive collection of stuffed birds and numerous watercolor paintings of the various tribes. There was also a snake park where one could see a variety of the local reptile life of Kenya. Fortunately, that was the closest I got to any snakes on the trip. They had many impressively poisonous species, like the green and black mambas. I was interested to learn that the black mamba is actually a grey color, but is named due to the inside of its mouth being black. But perhaps the most dangerous was an ornery variety of viper that, besides being cranky, liked to lay in footpaths. As a cultural note, the people of Kenya do not speak swahili. Swahili is technically a term for a group of people who speak kiswahili (key-sway-lee). But if you asked if someone spoke swahili, they would know what you meant.
Monday, May 23
Day 3
We still suffered from travel induced insomnia, and all woke up at an ungodly hour of the morning. Today was the first time we went to Magadi. On the way to the field, Billy, our driver, pointed out the largest slum I had ever seen. It housed around 700,000 people in an endless sea of corrugated metal shacks. Also on the drive, we saw warthogs, baboons, Maasai cattle, camels and donkeys. Being down in the rift valley, Magadi is much warmer that Nairobi. But there is almost a constant breeze going through, so it doesn’t feel too bad. During a picnic lunch, we met a Maasai, whom Jim named Ed. That entire exchange was fairly humorous.
Tuesday, May 24
Day 4
Kate and I went to the Maasai market in Nairobi and ended up with a posse of guys who wanted to follow us around to “help” 
us around the market. One claimed to be some sort of tribal prince or something to that effect. They seemed to have deals with some of the various merchants as they steered us away from certain stalls. They also insisted on carrying around anything we even remotely showed interest in, so we could figure out a “package deal” when we were done. At the end, they named some outrageous amount for what you had, and thus commenced the haggling. That’s something you don’t encounter much in the States, and it was pretty uncomfortable not being used to the process. There were also a lot of beggars throughout the market, most of whom were women with babies. It was hard, as you would hand out some change, and then you would get swamped with other people, and eventually you just didn’t have change any more. At least none of their babies looked thin or starved.
For a unique dinner experience we went to the Carnivore restaurant. They have a large variety of meats and would come around with some kind of carcass on a sword and if you wanted some they would shave some off onto your plate. They would keep coming around until you lowered a little white flag on your table. There was an open courtyard and a variety of cats had determined that this was a great place to beg for scraps.
Wednesday, May 25
Jim, Billy and I tried to go out to Lake Natron, of which the northern part of the lake is supposed to exist in Kenya. The actual mileage wasn’t much, but once you are on dirt roads, or the occasional goat path, the going is very, very slow. We eventually got to the Ewaso Ngiro river and ended up in Tanzania according to the GPS. Unfortunately, the goat path we were following petered out before we made it to Lake Natron. We could have made it a different way, but there was supposedly a border check on that route. We did however get a water sample from the river, and amused a lot of the native Maasai that were out there. I’m sure they don’t see cars out there very often.
Thursday, May 26
Day 6
We found an internet cafe, and due the time that sucked out of the day, we decided to go check out Olorgesallie instead of go all the way to Magadi. There was actually a school bus there when we got there, and a group of Maasai women sitting in the shade of the car park. It was interesting, but most of what we saw were hand axes. Granted, the shear numbers of them were pretty impressive. They just look like plain rocks at first, and if they hadn’t been pointed out to us we probably would have just walked by them.
On the way back to the car, I had wanted to look at some of the jewelry the Maasai women had displayed. As I walked towards them, they started picking up all their stuff, and I assumed that they were packing up for the day. In reality, they were picking it up so they could place it on me! Apparently, that’s how they sell goods. They put it on you so you can figure out which ones you want. They covered my arms with bracelets until my arms got too wide. It was odd at first, but after a while, it was pretty fun. I made several purchases, and felt better than after the “Maasai” market in Nairobi.
Friday, May 27
Day 7
It had rained in Magadi during the night, so we decided to stay in Nairobi. We spent the entire day trying to track down the Kenya Geologic reports. That involved a governmental office goose chase and then a long wait at the office that actually had them. They had all the maps we wanted except for Magadi. They had the reports, but for some reason none of the Magadi reports had the corresponding geologic maps. When it came to buying the maps, the people who were there couldn’t handle the money, and the accountant was missing in action. It was rather long and frustrating. They had a geologic library, which looked like it hadn’t been updated in 40 years.
Saturday, May 28
Day 8
We attempted Magadi despite it having rained in Nairobi during the night. It wasn’t too muddy, but it was hot and muggy. We actually collected our first rocks today and attempted to take some core samples. I was bad at that. We headed back fairly early, and we saw the cutest mini-herd of Maasai calves. They were alone, no herders or adult cattle around, so I made Billy stop the car so I could take pictures of them.
Sunday, May 29
Day 9
We went to Magadi again, but we couldn’t get to the hot springs Jim went to the year before. There was a large expanse of mud, and we didn’t trust the sedan to get across it without getting stuck.
Monday, May 30
Day 10
Despite days of avoiding being eaten at night by mosquitoes, unlike poor Kate, they finally found me. I was buzzed awake several times, and it sure makes you feel paranoid. We had a free day of sorts in Nairobi. There was a group trip to Photomap International to check into getting aerial photos of the area. They didn’t have any on file, so if we wanted them, we would have to get them flown. Kate and I wandered around downtown Nairobi and spent the afternoon poking our heads into various shops. We also made a trip to the US Embassy Memorial park. It was a nice park with some humbling exhibits. The current US Embassy is now in the industrial park area of Nairobi instead of right downtown.
Tuesday, May 31
Day 11
We went to Magadi again in an attempt to locate the hot springs in the southwestern corner of the lake. Jim had visited them the previous year, and thus we were able to load their GPS coordinates and see where they were located. On the way we stopped by Olorgesalie again so I could get a few more bracelets from the Maasai women who stake that place out. It turns out that the women are from villages that are close enough to the historic site that they can see cars approaching and then walk over. So we had to wait a while for someone to arrive as we were the only car there. Also, due to the rains, one group of women couldn’t make it, because a river between them and the site was too swollen. Billy told us that while their husbands are away, the Maasai women aren’t allowed to sell the goats/livestock left behind, so there have been instances where women have starved when things went wrong. By making jewelry and selling it to tourists, they make their own money which they can use to support themselves and their families.
At Magadi, since I was the only one with a pair of (rather snazzy) mud boots, I got to walk across the mud flat in 
search of the hot springs. I crossed one hill which put me out of sight of the car, and was confronted with another low, flat area. I saw a couple of Jeeps that were US style, and I asked them if they had seen any hot springs. They directed me across the next little hill, and then, according to Billy and Kate, drove to where our car was and proceeded to do circles on the mud flat. I think they were showing off. I spent a while wandering around wondering where the heck those hot springs were. There was running water, but I was looking for the “green and brown” plants Baker mentioned in his report. I finally noticed an area with very lush green and magenta algae and figured that there should be a hot spring around there. Sure enough, the algae were around a vent. It then occurred to me, that by “plants” Baker had meant algae. But I had been looking for grasses. Once I had that figured out, finding the hot springs was much easier.
I ended up walking 2.4 miles in my mud boots, which I don’t recommend. I was sure my feet were blistered and my boots were full of sweat by the time I got back to the car. It also took a lot longer than anticipated, and Billy and Kate were getting worried. In fact, there had been a wildebeast on the first hill on my way out, but it was just a large black form to Billy and Kate, who were hoping that it wasn’t a Buffalo. Apparently buffalo are mean critters and will chase down a person. Even if that person were to climb a tree, it is said that the buffalo will sit and wait for you. Fortunately, it was just a wildebeast, and they aren’t as aggressive. In fact, on my way back to the car, there was an entire herd of wildebeast who were giving me the evil-eye. That was a little disquieting.
Wednesday, June 1
Day 12
Jim’s friend Louie from the Magadi Soda Factory suggested a place to look for aerial photos and had the Magadi map we were missing. We went to the airport after breakfast to visit with Esther from the safari company so Jim and Kate could plan an excursion to Mombasa. I was highly jealous, as they spent less than $500 for the 2 of them to take a first class train ride to/from Mombasa and spend the night there. And they were going the weekend after I left. I was also informed that I had to reconfirm my flight 72 hours in advance or else they could resell my ticket. I was totally unaware of this, so it was a good thing Esther brought it up. After, we all went to the elephant orphanage to look at the babies, and Kate and I went on the Safari Walk. Unfortunately, we never saw the lions. One thing that was rather torturous was that there were water fountains all over, and being thirsty they were tempting, but I would always have to stop myself after the initial impulse as they weren’t tourist-friendly. For dinner, Kate and I walked to a lebanese restaurant a few blocks down from the Woodmere. It was really good, and Kate and I really enjoyed ourselves. I also learned that one of the reasons I get so many safari company offers is because I’m so pale. Kate and I were waiting outside for Billy and Jim after breakfast, and we were chatting with some of the other safari company workers (after they tried to get us to use the company we were already using!). They asked how long I had been in Kenya, and they seemed surprised that I answered almost 2 weeks. I was so pale, I must not like the sun. They didn’t seem to quite understand red-heads. I told then that in order to tan, I have to burn first, which really isn’t fun, so I avoid it by being careful and using sunscreen. I bet the vast majority of tourists to Kenya tan. But, anyway, apparently I get the offers because no matter how long I’m there it looks like I’m fresh off the plane!
Thursday, June 2
Day 13
We went to Westlands to get the Magadi maps scanned. It was only $10 for both maps to be scanned and burned onto a CD, so Jim decided he was going to have the rest of the geologic maps we obtained scanned after I leave. We then went to the Survey of Kenya to see if they had any aerial photos. It turned out that this was the first day of a governmental strike, so very few people were actually available to help us. While we were waiting I was reading a memo from summer 2004 when they went on strike. The memo said that if their striking goals were met, the monthly salary for the lowest rank of government official would go from $25 to around $200. I have no idea what the outcome of the previous years strike was, but... $25 a month!!
I left Kenya around 11 pm local time, and could have easily spent another 2 weeks there. This was an amazing adventure, but now I need to do the work that justifies the travel.
